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Find a waterfall still running inside a cliff of icicles

Seljalandsfoss In 3 weeks
Find a waterfall still running inside a cliff of icicles
Photograph by nicholas hatherly

Seljalandsfoss comes off the escarpment in one drop of sixty meters, and in the middle of an Icelandic winter it is still coming. The flow is too heavy to stop. Everything around it freezes instead.

It is the first stop on the coast road and it announces itself a long way out, a white line down a black cliff with a flat field in front of it. There is no approach to build up to. It is simply there, at the side of the road, at full volume.

The cliff is what the season changes. Spray freezes where it lands, so by midwinter the rock on both sides of the fall is hung with icicles from the lip down, some of them taller than the people standing under them, and the ground below is glazed and blue. After dark it is floodlit, which sounds like a municipal decision and turns out to be the reason it is worth stopping here in January at all.

The path that runs behind the water is a summer path. It is expected to be closed from late October through to late April, because the footing goes and because things come off the lip and land on it. So the winter version of this is the front of the fall rather than the back of it, and the ice that shuts the path is the same ice that makes it worth the stop.

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